1 Remove tanks, had to cut the right fuel flow pipe down by about 1 cm and the left by 1/2 a cm because they had corroded. Some patches of rust, all rubber bushings are still intact, and good.
-Volume of tank - At least one spare fuel hose about 1 ft long for distance touring
2 Air filter was very oily. obviously Oil being sucked up into Air intake. Cleaned the foam Air filter in petrol allowed to dry extensively, then glued the undone bits back together. Reinserted the drain/overflow to the gearbox / engine area.
Tightened up the rubber pipes going into the carburettors, and made note to replace on cable tie with clamp.
Observed that there are three drain plugs, the right with a pipe, the middle blank and the left with a crimped pipe.
- Investigate middle one
3 Changed spark plug, as well as winding the cable further into the high tension lead to give a more secure connection. Interesting. Probably need a second HT lead for long distance touring
4 took chain back from #6 to #7 taking up some slack but not too much. Tightened and the slip pinned the nut back together. No way near as bad as I had imagined it to be.
5 removed the nail connected to the one end of that Switch, no idea what it does or where it goes through to, but suspect that it may have something to do with the electric starter motor.
6 Threaded two new electrical leads into place to mount a 12v electricity socket for later use.
7 Not discovered what the right hand side pulley thingy is for under the tank at the top of the cylinder head, but it should have a cable leading off to the rear for it. I think that this is for some sort of decompression lever, either attached to the Foot crank or to a lever somewhere.
Bike starts and runs fine without it!
8 Oil leak looks like it may be from the front break cylinder, but it doesn’t make sense, so need to investigate more thoroughly. Come to the conclusion that the leak is from the Oil Filter cover amongst other places, as this is a dogs breakfast, it makes sense.
9 Oil filter cover looks to be completely naffed, need new cover eventually, and probably a new thread into the bottom screw.
10 Exhaust down-pipe. This has rusted somewhat and am reluctant to repair, as cost prohibitive. Initially the left one in tact, but the right one cracked. This was all fine until the right cracked.
Loosening the nuts holding the exhaust on was a major exercise, heat treatment won at the end of the day. Heat then unscrew, and hammer, then heat unscrew and hammer then repeat. N.B. remove tank. Not great idea to use heat gun with naked flame near oily bits and petrol tank…
Finally left with the metal ends that are held into the cylinder head, these have proved to be very very difficult to remove, as yet I have been unsuccessful. Have decided to take to a shop to get done properly, and meanwhile I have wire tied the exhaust roughly into place. Hope cops don’t stop me on way to shop.
The (double ended) cylinder head/exhaust threads and nuts should all probably be replaced.
Next weekend
That Oil leak
Replace oil filter cap – Need to urgently sort out the threads inside.
High pressure clean bike again, this time to remove any trace of oil
Identify areas of oil leak
Penetrating oil onto exhaust bits.
Bash-plate bolt.
Drum brakes
12v Accessory socket
Tighten up tank bolts
3 November 2007
Spent all day on the bloody bike. With the neighbours help have got it running again.
Those exhaust down pipe entry pieces: Blixem’s as I call them need to be worried with, to come out. Some penetrating oil, 3-in-1 worked fine and then a larger set of mole grips and shake like hell for 20 minutes. Resisted the urge to Heat it up!
Took 30 minutes worrying to get the one out, but less for the other.
Getting the copper and wire seals out as well proved to be trouble some but got there in the end. Removed pipe, replaced and bolted together several times wrong! But got it right in the end.
Removed the bolt at the end which looks like it is a restrictor.
Wired a BMW socket into the fairing with a “weather resistant” cap to seal it off. Managed to disconnect a trip switch mounted near the battery on the frame, need to sort it out again, solder etc.
Now need to wire it all up through a fuse, then store the excess wire in the handle bar bag when it comes!
Bash plate removed to enable cleaning and still need a bolt.
Removed lever for the rear drum brake and can now get it locked up… but did not check pads, another day!
Spent a while pulling oil through the clutch cable to ease it up, and now there is definitely more play and feel, used a plastic bag corner and pumped it through.
Have an oil filter cap on the way via ebay, this one well and truly naffed.
The filter cap was buggered and need a new Oring, ordered should be here by Tuesday.
The 6o’clock thread is a dogs breakfast bored out to 8mm and sort of tapped. I got it re tapped and then a new 8mm bolt inserted. This has held back the oil so far. But I probably need to put in a helicoil in the future. Checked oil level, need to drain some rather urgently. Oil filter looks good and oil also looks good.
Moved Handle bars to more comfortable position definitely better. Put the Ram knob onto the centre of the handlebar to prevent it from hitting the sides of the tank.
Tank all bolted up tightly.
Indicators working as they should.
Removed the handguards, they help protect from the wind blast but are too tight.
Washed bike with pressure spray again and still it is oily! Need to attack the area beneath the mud guards and maybe use some soap!
Need new rear wheel spoke.
Chain oiling, what’s best?
Need hand guards.
Need clutch plates and probably cable as well
Need a set of socket spanners.
Need Hand grips and bar end weights.
Neighbour offered to help fabricate a bracket.
Exhaust silencer.
May need a rear brake armature in the future
Next JOB
Rear wheel needs a spoke, one appears to have snapped off, probably need to remove rear tyre to see how it all goes together, and good practice.
Install handle bar guards.
Need electric connectors and solder back together again.
12 November 2007-11-12
Installed Handguards, with sides happy that all is fine.
Soldered the fuse back together, all fine now.
Ran penetrating out through Clutch cable, very stiff, need to do this more thoroughly.
Fitted the GPS wire for it to be permanently attached
Ran penetrating oil through Speedometer cable a cleaned up. Played with odometer to see if I could get it working smoothly.
Took bike for first run, unfortunately the exhaust silencer blew itself off and needed to be reattached with the sealant. Took bike home and re attached with more enthusiasm on the clamp.
Measured up the soft bicycle panniers they look to do the job for now.
Took it for an off road spin (grin) WOW what fun.
ISSUES:
Engine rattles, possibly top end?
Headlight aimed slightly too low, with some weight on the rear axle will be just perfect.
Clutch releases at the end of the take, need to do something.
Rear Drum brakes grab and release, oval not round.
End of ride, exhaust had melted it way through the side plastic… fitted spacer to prevent this happening again.
Exhaust Silencer will continue to be an issue
P.S.Written a few year later this motorbike was stollen - Seriously sad, but I ended up buying a 2011 XT660Z Tenere (in blue) with 50 miles on the clock after a lengthy fight with the insurance company. 6 years later I heard that it had been recovered - Police never informed me, and the thieving scum remain free.
Some 70,000 kilometres later Im still riding and loving the New Yamaha Tenere - remembering fondly the bike that started me on the journey
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